![]() Make this calculation to find the wavelength of the wave.ī) Given what you know about the Pacific Ocean depth, do you expect this wave to be a deep water, or a shallow water wave?Ĭ) The formula for wave speed for a deep water wave is:Ĭalculate the speed in km/sec, for the 14 sec period wave.ĭ) Now use the time formula at the top of this page to compute the time it takes this wave to travel 6,000 km. As physical oceanographer Kim Martini told Deep Sea News, the largest waves that. kh > h > 2 (short waves or deep water)(e.g. h << (long waves or shallow water) 1 for kh >» 3 i.e.To figure out whether it's a deep or shallow water wave, you need to find its wavelength.Ī) The formula for wavelength vs. The biggest ocean waves are not the ones that you can see from the shoreline. Solution of the Dispersion Relationship :2 gktanhkh Property of tanhkh: tanhkh sinhkh coshkh 1¡e¡2kh 1+e¡2kh kh for kh << 1 i.e. Time (secs) =distance (km)/speed (km/sec)Ī wave is a deep water wave if the depth > wavelength/2Ī wave is a shallow water wave if depth < wavelength/20 The object of this activity is to compute how long it takes the 14 second period waves to travel 6,000 km across the pacific. ![]() Play over 265 million tracks for free on SoundCloud. Surfers know that the best waves from distant storms have periods of about 14 seconds. Therefore, the celerity of a deep water wave depends on the period (or on the wavelength because period and wavelength are related as CT). Stream Deep Sleep Music - Ocean Waves, Fall Asleep Fast, Relaxing Music, Sleeping Music 138 by Soothing Relaxation on desktop and mobile.
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